| CONTEMPORARY 
                    QUOTES CONCERNING SCOTTISH MEN'S ATTIRE The Wild Scots' Are clothed after the 
                      Irish fashion, in striped mantles, with their hair long 
                      and thick.-1607, Camden, in his Britannia.
 
 Lady Montgomery, wife of Sir Hugh Montgomery, 'set up and 
                      encouraged linen
 and woollen manufactory (in Ulster), which soon brought 
                      down the prices of the breakens (tartans) and narrow cloths 
                      of both sorts.' The beginning of such (manu-)factories might 
                      be part of the reason woollens were replacing the linen 
                      shirts, brats and animal skins around the turn of the century.
 -1613
 It appears that the desire for uniformity 
                      in the colours of tartan used by a clan was beginning in 
                      the early 1600's: "remove the red and white lines from 
                      the plaides of his men so as to bring their dress into harmony 
                      with that of other septs.-1618, Letter from Sir Rbt. Gordon of Gordonstoun to Murray 
                      of Pulrossie
 "Many Highlanders were observed 
                      in this town (Leith), in their plaids, many without doublets, 
                      and those who have doublets have a kind of loose flap garment 
                      about their breech, their knees bare. The inure themselves 
                      to cold, hardship, and will not diswont themselves. Proper 
                      personable well-completed men, and of able men: the very 
                      gentlemen in their blue caps and plaids."- 1635, Sir William Brereton.
 Lowland Dress The husbandmen in Scotland, the servants, 
                      and almost all in the country did wear coarse cloth made 
                      at home, of grey or sky-colour, and flat blue caps, very 
                      broad. The merchants in cities were attired in English or 
                      French cloth, of pale colour, or mingled black and blue. 
                      The gentlemen did wear English cloth, or silk, or light 
                      stuffs, little or nothing adorned with silk lace, much less 
                      with lace of silver or gold, and all followed at this time 
                      the French fashion, especially at court. -Englishman Fynes 
                      Morison, visiting Scotland 1598 (Whalebone sleeves: sleeves 
                      stretched on whalebone hoops. Falling bands: A deep linen 
                      collar, turned down.)==============================
 CONTEMPORARY QUOTES CONCERNING SCOTTISH WOMEN'S ATTIRE
 Women's Highland Dress "The dress of the women among 
                      them is most becoming, for over a gown reaching the feet, 
                      and very richly adorned by the Phrygian art (embroidery), 
                      they wear very full cloaks, of several colours, such as 
                      I have described - loose and flowing, yet gracefully drawn 
                      into folds, as they will. With their arms tastefully adorned 
                      with bracelets, and their throats with necklaces they have 
                      great grace and beauty." -Bishop Lesley, 1570's. The original is in Latin, and uses 
                      the word tunica, for gown, which may suggest a straight-hanging 
                      fullness of more Medieval style, in contrast to the more 
                      fashionable farthingale.
 Women's Fashions, Edinburgh
 
 The original paragraph has been broken up by social class 
                      to help make the descriptions distinct from each other.
 "The women here wear and use upon 
                      festival days six or seven several habits and fashions, 
                      some for distinction of widows, wives and maids, others 
                      apparelled according to their own humour and fantasy. Many 
                      wear (especially the meaner sort) plaids, which is a garment 
                      of the same woollen stuff whereof saddle cloths in England 
                      are made (A close felt-like cloth the would keep out rain), 
                      which is cast over their heads and covers their faces on 
                      both sides, and would reach almost to the ground, but that 
                      they pluck them up and wear them cast under their arms." 
                      Some ancient women and citizens wear satin straight-bodied 
                      gowns, short little cloaks with great capes, and a broad 
                      bonegrace coming over their brows and going out with a corner 
                      behind their heads: and this bonegrace is as it were lined 
                      with a white starched cambric suitable thereto." (Bonegrace: 
                      a silk, or cloth hood over a starched under-coif projecting 
                      around the face like the headgear of some religious orders?) 
                      "Young maids not married all are bare-headed, some 
                      with broad thin shag ruffs, which lie flat to their shoulders, 
                      and others with half bands, with wide necks, either much 
                      stiffened or set with wire, which come only behind: and 
                      these shag ruffs, some are more broad and thick than others." 
                      - 1635, Sir William Brereton.
 Bands with wide necks seem to be the 
                      broad lawn collars on each side of a square décolletage, 
                      as in the paintings of Van Dyck. These seem to have reached 
                      Scotland sooner than England. Van Dyck's portrait of Mevrouw 
                      Leerse shows this collar, with the tilted back cut separate, 
                      and edged in lace. Itis shown with deep cuffs to match on a black satin dress. 
                      His portrait of Marie-Louise de Tassis has another, with 
                      the back part pleated. Later the stiffening went, and it 
                      lay flat. The "shag ruff" is a puzzlement. According 
                      to the Oxford Dictionary, shag was cloth of wool or silk, 
                      with a velvet nap
 similar to a modern velour. The true ruff was of linen, 
                      perhaps with lace, and did not lie flat. The author may 
                      be describing a pleated tippet, worn for warmth above the 
                      low-cut dress of the day.
 Lowland Dress
 The original paragraph has been broken 
                      up by social class to help make the descriptions distinct 
                      from each other. Gentlewomen married, did wear close 
                      upper bodies, after the German manner, with large whalebone 
                      sleeves, after the French manner, short cloaks like the 
                      Germans, French hoods, and large soft falling bands about 
                      their necks. The unmarried of all sorts did go bareheaded 
                      and wear short cloaks with mostclose linen sleeves upon their arms, like the virgins of 
                      Germany. The inferior sort of citizen's wives and the women 
                      of the country did wear cloaks made of coarse stuff, of 
                      two or three colours of checker-work, vulgarly called ploddan. 
                      To conclude, in general they would not at this time be attired 
                      after the English fashion in any sort, but the men, especially 
                      at court, followed the French fashion, and the women, both 
                      in court and city, as well as in cloaks as naked heads and 
                      close sleeves on the arms and all other garments follow 
                      the fashion of the women of Germany.
 -Englishman Fynes Morison, visiting Scotland 1598 (Whalebone 
                      sleeves: sleeves stretched on whalebone hoops. Falling bands: 
                      A deep linen collar, turned down.)
 Sources:The Scottish Pageant 1513 - 1625. MacKenzie, Agnes Mure. 
                      Oliver and Boyd:
 Edinburgh & London, 1948.
  The Scottish Pageant 1525 - 
                      1707. MacKenzie, Agnes Mure. Oliver and Boyd:Edinburgh & London, 1949.
 
 A Short History of the Scottish Dress.Grange, R.M.D. Burke's 
                      Peerage
 Limited: London, 1966.
 
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